Setenil de las Bodegas is hands down one of the most unique and picturesque villages in Spain. It’s one of Spain’s most famous “pueblos blancos”, or “white towns”, which are a collection of whitewashed towns found in the southern region of Andalusia.

What makes Setenil de las Bodegas stand out from other pueblos blancos is the fact that the houses are built directly into and underneath massive overhanging rocks. Whether you’re planning a day trip or an overnight stay, Setenil de las Bodegas offers an unforgettable experience filled with history, breathtaking landscapes, and incredible local cuisine.

In this ultimate guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about visiting Setenil de las Bodegas, including the town’s history, how to get there, the top things to do, where to stay, and where to eat.

The History of Setenil de las Bodegas

Setenil’s history dates back thousands of years, with evidence of human habitation as far back as the prehistoric period. However, its modern history began with the Moors, who built fortifications there in the 12th century due to its strategic location along the Guadalporcún River. 

One of Setenil’s most striking features is its cave dwellings, which have been used for centuries. Unlike other cave towns, where homes are carved deep into cliffs, Setenil’s houses are built directly beneath large rock formations, using the natural landscape as a roof and insulation. This design provides a natural climate control system, keeping the interiors cool in summer and warm in winter. Many of these dwellings are still inhabited today, while others have been transformed into restaurants, bars, and shops.

According to tradition, the name “Setenil” comes from the Latin phrase septem nihil (meaning “seven times nothing”), referencing the Christian Reconquista forces’ seven failed attempts to seize the town from the Moors before they finally succeeded in 1484.

The second part of Setenil’s name, “de las Bodegas,” refers to the village’s historic wine production and storage. Thanks to the natural caves, which maintain an ideal temperature for aging wine, Setenil became an important center for wine production during the Middle Ages. Although large-scale production has declined, local bodegas still offer excellent regional wines, making it a great place to sample Andalusia’s best vintages.

How to Get to Setenil de las Bodegas

Setenil de las Bodegas is most easily accessible by car, so I recommend renting a car for the most flexibility, especially if you’re planning to explore other nearby pueblos blancos or want to take your time exploring the stunning Andalusian countryside.

The closest international airports to Setenil de las Bodegas are Seville (SVQ) and Málaga (AGP). From either city, the drive takes you through some of the most beautiful landscapes in Andalusia, with olive groves, rolling hills, and charming villages along the way.

From Seville: Driving from Seville is the most convenient and flexible way to visit Setenil de las Bodegas. The journey takes about 1.5 to 2 hours via the A-375 and A-374 highways, and the drive itself is beautiful, winding through the scenic Andalusian countryside with plenty of picturesque views along the way. Renting a car gives you the freedom to stop at charming little villages or viewpoints as you go, and makes it easy to combine your visit to Setenil with other nearby pueblos blancos like Ronda, which is only 20 minutes away. If you’re not comfortable driving, there are also guided day trips from Seville that combine Setenil and Ronda as a day trip, which can be a stress-free way to experience the area without having to worry about logistics.

From Málaga: Setenil de las Bodegas is about the same distance from Málaga as Seville, at about a 1.5 to 2-hour drive away. The drive is incredibly scenic, passing through rolling hills, olive groves, and many of Andalusia’s charming whitewashed villages along the way. If you’d prefer not to drive, there are also guided day tours from Málaga that include Setenil and Ronda in one itinerary, which can be a great way to see both without the hassle of navigating on your own.

From Ronda: Ronda is the closest tourist town to Setenil de las Bodegas, and is just a quick 20-minute drive from Ronda. Buses run regularly between the two towns, or you can opt to rent a car for more flexibility. The drive is super scenic and offers stunning views of Andalusia’s rolling hills and olive groves – in my opinion, the drive over to Setenil makes the experience even more magical!

From Madrid: Madrid is a popular starting point for any Spain trip, and if you’d like to visit Setenil from Madrid, it is about 5 hours and 45 minutes by car. If you are traveling from Madrid, I suggest stopping in Córdoba for a night or two before making your way to Setenil. Córdoba is a stunning Andalusian city and is a 4-hour drive from Madrid, and a 2-hour drive from Setenil, so it’s a perfect stopping point to break up your drive. If you opt for this, check out my guide to May in Córdoba to make the most of your time there!

Alternatively, if you want to go to Setenil directly from Madrid, you can take the high-speed AVE train to Ronda (about 3 hours) and then rent a car or take a local bus or taxi to Setenil.

Best Time to Visit Setenil de Las Bodegas

Setenil is a year-round destination, however, spring and fall offer much more enjoyable weather and below-peak crowds, and I’d recommend trying to visit sometime in one of those seasons.

Summers can be extremely hot in Setenil, as with the majority of Andalusia, and while the rocks will help keep you cooler in the shade, the heat can still be exhausting, making it far less comfortable to explore the town on foot. Furthermore, summer is the busiest season for Setenil, and you’ll encounter far larger crowds during that time. 

Meanwhile, winter will be much chillier, also potentially making your trip to Setenil de Las Bodegas less pleasant. That being said, winter is off-season in Setenil, and visiting that time of year will be pretty empty. If you don’t mind the colder weather, winter in Setenil can be a great time to visit to experience the town at its quietest. 

If you’re looking for something super unique, and want to experience local festivities, visiting in April during Semana Santa (Holy Week) or in August for the annual Feria de Setenil offers an amazing cultural experience – though you should expect far more crowds than usual if you will be visiting during either of those events.

Tips for Visiting Setenil de las Bodegas

How Much Time Do You Need in Setenil?

Setenil is a small town that can be explored in just a few hours, making it a perfect day trip from Seville or Ronda. However, staying overnight allows for a more immersive experience, allowing you to enjoy quieter mornings and evenings when the crowds of day-trippers leave.

Staying in a Cave House in Setenil de las Bodegas

Most of the accommodation options in Setenil de las Bodegas are traditional cave houses, which are literally built into the rockface! Staying in a cave house makes for an even more authentic experience in Setenil de las Bodegas, and definitely makes your time spent here all the more special.

We stayed two nights in a cave house, and it was an incredible experience. These unique accommodations are affordable, authentic, and comfortable, offering a once-in-a-lifetime stay beneath the massive rock formations. Staying overnight also allows you to take your time exploring and enjoy the town when it’s less crowded.

Parking in Setenil de las Bodegas

Parking in Setenil can be tricky due to the town’s narrow streets and limited parking spaces. It’s best to park in one of the designated parking lots on the outskirts of town before you begin exploring on foot. Arriving early in the day will give you a better chance of finding a spot, especially during peak tourist seasons. If you are staying overnight in Setenil, check to see if your accommodation offers a private parking space. Our cave house had this, and it made our parking experience super easy and convenient!

Best Things to Do in Setenil de las Bodegas

Take a Stroll Through the Setenil Town

Taking a stroll through the town of Setenil is a must to get acquainted with the town and take in all of its beautiful scenery. Not only is Setenil de las Bodegas incredibly picturesque, with several amazing viewpoints dotted throughout the town, but the opportunity to walk through a town that’s literally built underneath rock overhanging is an experience unlike any other!

Here are a few of the main areas of interest not to miss while exploring Setenil town:

Calle Cuevas del Sol

Calle Cuevas del Sol is one of the most iconic streets in Setenil, and is a popular spot to enjoy a meal while dining underneath the massive rock overhangs. Calle Cuevas del Sol boasts several great dining options with plenty of outdoor seating so that you can enjoy the unique atmosphere. We sat for a meal at Bar Frasquito and absolutely loved it! It was definitely a highlight during our time in Setenil. On this street, you’ll also find other dining options, like La Escueva, La Tasca, and Lucia, all serving traditional Andalusian meals. It’s one of the most popular spots in town to eat, so I suggest having an earlier lunch (before 2 pm) to ensure that you are able to snag an outdoor seat, especially if you will be visiting on a weekend.

Calle Cuevas de la Sombra

Another one of the most iconic streets in Setenil, Calle Cuevas de la Sombra is an incredibly picturesque street that is built directly underneath a huge rock slab. Here you will find local shops and a few cafes, and restaurants. If you are interested in purchasing any souvenirs from Setenil, you’ll find a few cave shops here that sell ceramics and local delicacies, such as olive oil, jamón ibérico, and regional sweets.

Calle Herreria

Calle Herreria is a small, narrow street nestled under – you guessed it – a rock slab! It’s a steep street with a stairway that will lead you up towards the top of Setenil town. It’s incredibly unique and definitely worth climbing these stairs as you make your way to the upper part of town.

Take in the views along Ruta del Amor

Ruta del Amor is another popular walking route in Setenil, offering stunning panoramic views of the whitewashed town and its surrounding scenery. The path winds through charming streets and leads to some of the most breathtaking overlooks in the area. Make sure to stop for some photos at the best viewpoints, including Mirador del Carmen, which provides an incredible vantage point over the rooftops and rock formations. Walking this route in the early morning or late afternoon offers the best lighting for photos and a more peaceful experience than the hectic peak tourist hours.

Walk Along the Guadalporcún River

The Guadalporcún River flows through Setenil, creating peaceful and picturesque walking paths that offer beautiful photo opportunities. Walking at the base of the river allows you to view Setenil town from a unique perspective, making you feel absolutely surrounded by a town built inside of a massive gorge!

Visit the Castle of Setenil

Located at the highest point in Setenil de Las Bodegas, the Castle of Setenil is a 12th-century Moorish castle offering beautiful panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside. For the highest viewpoint, make sure to climb the Torre del Homenaje!

Where to Stay in Setenil De Las Bodegas

If you decide to stay a night or two in Setenil, staying in a traditional cave house is an absolute must! Not only is this an incredibly unique and authentic accommodation experience, but these rentals are quite affordable, with most being under 80 Euros per night! I suggest checking out the cave houses listed on Booking.com, which is where we booked our cozy cave house.

Don’t be turned away if a cave house doesn’t have air conditioning – the entire purpose of the cave houses is to naturally stay cool, even during the hot summer months, so even if there is no AC and you visit during the peak of summer, you should be comfortable.

Best Cafes & Restaurants in Setenil de Las Bodegas

While Setenil de las Bodegas may be a small town, there is no shortage of amazing restaurants and cafes where you can enjoy a delicious coffee or an authentic Andalusian meal. Below are some of the best dining options you’ll find in Setenil:

Best Restaurants in Setenil

• Bar Frasquito: One of the best restaurants on the iconic Calle Cuevas del Sol. They serve traditional Andalusian food, and their sangria was delicious! It was the perfect atmosphere to enjoy a traditional meal in an incredibly unique setting.
• El Patio de María Teresa: Tucked away on a quieter street towards the top of Setenil town, El Patio de María Teresa is a charming family-run spot offering traditional meals with generous portions. The outdoor patio offers absolutely stunning panoramic views of Setenil, so if you are looking to enjoy a meal with a view, this is the place to be!
• La Cueva de Isabelina: Dining at La Cueva de Isabelina feels like stepping into someone’s cave home in the best way possible! Located along the famous Calle Cuevas del Sol, it has a cozy, rustic atmosphere with stone walls and warm lighting. Their grilled meats and tapas are what most people come here for, and it’s a great option if you want to try something local in a cave setting.
• La Telera 1860: A bit more modern and upscale compared to other restaurants in town, La Telera 1860 is located along Cuevas de la Sombra and offers Andalusian dishes with a beautiful presentation. It’s the perfect spot for a date night or celebratory meal if you will be spending any special occasions in Setenil.
• Bar Calvente: A casual local favorite, Bar Calvente is located towards the end of Calle Cuevas del Sol and is known for its affordable prices and delicious tapas. It’s the kind of place where you’ll likely see more locals than tourists, which is always a good sign!
• Bar Alhambra: A classic Spanish café-bar, Bar Alhambra offers hearty homemade meals in a casual setting. The interior is beautiful, with traditional Andalusian arches and intricate tiling!

Best Cafes in Setenil

• Las Delicias de Loli: A quaint bakery and café located on one of the quieter streets in Setenil, Las Delicias de Loli offers delicious fresh pastries, cakes, and coffee drinks. In my opinion, this is the best cafe in Setenil and is the perfect place to start your morning or enjoy an afternoon pick-me-up.
• Terracota: One of the more modern cafés in town, Terracota has a relaxed, artsy vibe and a nice selection of drinks and snacks. It also opens earlier than most cafes, at 9 am. I will say, in our experience, the service was quite slow (even by the more laid back Spanish standards), so we decided to only order coffee so we could spend more time exploring the town. This definitely could have been an off day with a staff shortage, and we still enjoyed our coffee, and the outdoor seating was very pleasant.
• Cafetería-Bar Sol y Sombra: If you would like to enjoy a cup of coffee underneath the famous rock hanging along Cuevas del Sol, stop by Cafetería-Bar Sol y Sombra to get caffeinated in one of the best settings in town.

Conclusion

Setenil de las Bodegas is one of the most unique pueblos blancos in Andalusia, offering visitors a glimpse into a town that seamlessly blends history, nature, and modern life. Whether you visit as a day trip from Seville or stay overnight in a cave house, Setenil promises an unforgettable experience. From exploring rock-carved streets to savoring delicious local cuisine, this charming village is a must-visit destination in southern Spain.

If you’re planning a trip to Andalusia, make sure to add Setenil de las Bodegas to your itinerary for an experience unlike any other!

Planning a trip to Spain? Check out my other blog posts for more guides to Spain.

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